In the Words of Teddy
Said in reference to the Grand Canyon, but an apt blanket statement for wilderness in general:
In the Grand Canyon, Arizona has a natural wonder which is in kind absolutely unparalleled throughout the rest of the world. I want to ask you to keep this great wonder of nature as it now is. I hope you will not have a building of any kind, not a summer cottage, a hotel or anything else, to mar the wonderful grandeur, the sublimity, the great loneliness and beauty of the canyon. Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it.
-Theodore Roosevelt
Hiking the Narrows
Occasionally, I look through travel books or magazines searching for ideas. There are often photos of beautiful locales and listings for resorts, expensive hotels, eateries, and other aspects of luxury travel. I can’t generally afford luxury travel and I am not a big fan of pretending to be a member of the bourgeoisie with servants dancing around me. Earlier in the year, I stumbled across two books catering specifically to adventure travel—trips where you learn about yourself and get dirty. Thanks to The Rough Guide to Ultimate Adventures I was informed of something I never suspected—there are many reasons to visit Utah.
Slot Canyons, deep and narrow gorges, abound in Utah. They are spectacular. My Rough Guide highlighted one in particular—The Zion Narrows in Zion National Park. The itinerary: hike 16 miles (mostly in a shallow river) through the Zion backcountry within the confines of a slot canyon over the course of 2 days. The particulars: The Narrows were formed by the Virgin River. Over the 16 miles we’d be walking through it, its depth would range from ankle deep to waist deep with the occasional hole requiring swimming. Water flow would vary from mostly stagnant to somewhat powerful swiftwater. When not in the water, the hike includes a lot of rock hopping and scrambling. The walls of the canyon often rise over a thousand feet on either side. Nearby rain can cause flash floods (a few occur each year) so the weather must be monitored preceding and during the hike. Once inside the canyon, you must commit. Hiking is your only feasible way out as rescue is relatively difficult and time-consuming. I love climbing and scrambling. I love water (especially moving water). When water and climbing are combined, I am truly happy. From the moment I read about the Narrows in the Rough Guide, I knew I had to go.
Zion is a 7-10 hour drive from L.A. greatly dependent on traffic running through Las Vegas. Erika and I did a number of things this year, but visiting Zion had not fit into any of our plans conveniently. As fall approached, it became clear that our chances to hike the Narrows were dwindling. The waters would grow colder and dry suits (not just wet suits) would be required. Erika is not made for the cold. Labor Day weekend was our last hope. I logged onto the National Park Service website a month prior. Only 40 people are allowed through the Narrows each day as overnight hikers. Luckily I was able to reserve the last four spots for Sunday, Sept. 6 at Camp 2. Thankfully, our posse was only four people: Erika, Al-Insan, Steven, and me. Now, we just needed to wait for the weeks to pass.
Misadventures in Medicine Part 3 (of 3)
It was the end of May. Months of trying to get my swallowing issues resolved had led to nothing. I finally had a referral and it linked me to a potentially non-existent doctor’s office. That was the [insert straw and/or camel-related cliche here]. I decided to change physicians. It couldn’t possibly take any longer to start from scratch than I had wasted in the prior few months. My gamble met with reward.
I chose a doctor Erika recommended. Her office is within walking distance. It sits in a block comprised entirely of medical facilities and a hospital. Almost all of the tests and visits I would later undergo would occur within this block—less than a mile from my apartment. These buildings are clean, well-kept, and what one expects from a medical facility (very unlike my Westlake experience). Never have I welcomed the sterile environment of a bland doctor’s office so happily. I contacted my insurance and had my Primary Care Physician changed to her. I called to schedule an appointment. Less than a week later, I was in her office. She was friendly and listened without interruption. Then came the clincher. She has suffered from GERD since childhood. She has decades of experience dealing with its many intricacies. Fate was dealing me a kind hand. The following week she had me in a specialist’s office (conveniently located in a nearby building in that same block). He too was helpful and attentive. I had my blood drawn at a clinic down the hallway. The nurse’s technique was surprisingly good. It was as if he was able to slide the needle into my vein, extract the blood, and remove it in one well-honed movement. It was the first time in years I’d had blood drawn without leaving a bruise. Two days later the testing began.
I awoke early and walked to the hospital (still on the same block), received my armband, and headed upstairs for my Barium Esophagram. They placed me against a vertical bed on a hinge with an x-ray cannon aimed at my throat. I was asked to swallow odd-tasting barium solutions of various viscosity and a barium pill. Sometimes, the bed would rotate 90 degrees like a miniature amusement park ride. Occasionally, I could see a small monitor displaying an x-ray image of my digestive tract. At one point I was able to see the small pill shoot down my throat into my stomach. I was a little upset when it was over. It was kind of fun and I was looking forward to more strange liquids and entertaining live video from my innards.
A few weeks passed before the main event—Esophageal Endoscopy. No food the night before or the morning of. Starving, I jumped on a bus in the early afternoon of July 1st (this was the only test requiring me to go to a facility outside of the especially convenient medical block). I would be sedated and driving was not allowed. I had already arranged for Erika to pick me up after work. I was met with a little paperwork, a stylish gown, my own cot, and an IV feeding me saline. Then a rather long wait with intermittent conversations with passing nurses. The main event neared. I was a bit nervous, but not exceptionally. I was mostly bored. Having little experience with surgical procedures, I didn’t expect to be lying in a bed for so long awaiting the operation. I should have brought a book. Two saline bags later, I was rolled into the arena. I reminded the nurse I was there for the esophageal endoscopy and not the colonoscopy. She assured me that wouldn’t be a problem as my pants would get in the way. Then came the anesthesia. My lids drooped a bit and I was drowsy, but still somewhat coherent. When my teeth were cut out, I blacked out instantly and came to much later with no memory of what had transpired. In this case, I have memories of the entire procedure, albeit swimmy-drunken-surrealist painting-style memories. I didn’t feel the full effects of the sedative until the very end of the procedure. That being said, there was no pain or anxiety, although I do recall numerous odd gurgling noises coming from my throat. An endoscope is much wider and intimidating than you may expect. I imagined a small fiber-optic cable with a bulbous end. Instead, it was like a very long—yet flexible—desk lamp probing the depths of my throat. It was a strange experience, especially considering the drunkenness induced by the anesthesia. I was told to expect a sore throat, but it turned out to be very minor. A few days later I was rafting and kayaking whitewater in Kernville with no discomfort or weakness.
Thus ended my introduction to the world of esophageal medicine. It began badly, but ended rather well. I am currently on omeprazole—a valiant warrior against my over-abundant stomach acid. My doctor believes that my primary problem is not GERD, but Eosinophilic Esophagitis—an allergic inflammation of the esophagus. Based on my history with allergies, I think he is correct. My father has been seeing great results with his problems by taking allergy shots. He recommends I do the same. I intend to look into that soon. The swallowing problems have not disappeared entirely, but the medication has been helping.
The story of my throat does not end here. It continues, but I’m better armed for the quest ahead.
The Cobalt Returns
My fiery-red auto-machine is back in my possession. She looks brand new—cleaner and shinier than she has been in a long time. Two weeks ago, I was involved in a relatively tame auto accident. A woman was crossing two lanes of traffic to try to get into my empty lane (empty other than me). I hit my brakes, but it was impossible to avoid an accident as I was a car length or less away when she entered my lane. She scraped across my entire driver’s side and pressed my car against the curb scraping my hubcaps down into tiny smooth saucers. No one was injured and thus the police refused to show up to file a report (to serve and protect? That’s still the slogan, right? Shall we change it to Ticket and Harass?). Everything seemed in order until I learned from her insurance that she was lying to them—claiming I pulled into her lane, hit her, and then ran myself into the curb. There were many witnesses to the accident, but no one stopped. Thus, the only available witness is Erika, my passenger, a non-biased party. Since then, I have taken numerous photos of the skid-marks, attempted to find witnesses at the nearby school, drawn a map for my insurance, and plead my case based on the photographic evidence of the car. I am awaiting the insurance’s decision of whether to go to arbitration. If they do not, my adjuster will have to endure a long rant from me and the bitch that caused all of this will see me in small claim’s court. On the upside, my car is back on the road.
Advice from future me to past me: When in an accident, always tell the police you are injured. When they arrive at the scene, tell them you are feeling better, “it must have been from the shock. Will you write a report now, please?””
The Mountains are Burning
Erika and I helped a friend of mine evacuate his home in Altadena. From his backyard, we could see huge plumes of smoke and flames burning the mountainsides less than a few miles away. I expected the fire to be close, but not so close. Helicopters and planes of various sizes soared overhead pouring pink blankets of fire-retardant along the perimeter. An anxious wild rabbit scurried through the bushes every few seconds. The streets were littered with rubberneckers aiming cameras and cellphones at the horizon until the police evicted them. His house is both his home and place of business so we loaded up his valued possessions and inventory. As we drove away, more police cars were appearing alongside news vans and firefighters. Presently, he is grabbing a few extra things while he can before the police kick him out of the area. Let’s hope for the best.
Crystal Cove
Saturday, Erika and I tried to go snorkeling in Crystal Cove. The waters have been rough lately and this still seems to be the case. The undertow was extremely strong and the breaks were equally powerful. We thought it unwise to swim out to try to snorkel. Instead we played in the shallows and explored the beaches and coves. It’s a beautiful place.
Misadventures in Medicine Part 2 (of 3)
My swallowing difficulties are shared by my father and at least one of my uncles. There is also a history of acid relflux and heartburn. Thus far, my issues with heartburn have been few, but I often awake with an acidic sour stomach that makes me not want to eat breakfast. Early in the year this was becoming worse along with the constriction in my throat. One night, while eating especially dry chicken, I applied my usual forced swallowing by gulping water maneuver. It backfired. The food became lodged in my throat, the water resting atop it—bubbling occasionally as I struggled to breathe. I leapt from my chair and began tensing my esophagus in an attempt to force it to move in some direction. Up, down, I didn’t care as long as it went somewhere. A few seconds of gagging, Erika’s frightened face, minor flailing, and finally success. Pieces of chewed chicken and water hit the carpet. I was shaking. It was time to get this malady addressed.
I had contacted my doctor’s office roughly a week prior. I was informed my doctor was “out of the country for a month” meaning I couldn’t set up an appointment sooner than a month away. After the choking incident I called back. I wanted to see a gastroenterologist as soon as possible. All I needed was a referral. I was assured that was impossible. “The doctor is out of the country.” My only option was to pay full price if I didn’t have a referral and apparently there was no substitute doctor in the office during her time away to see me. I contacted my insurance. They were equally unhelpful and unsympathetic. Thus, I waited and ate carefully (and with trepidation).
Three weeks later I visited the glorified cubicle masquerading as a doctor’s office. Instead of a referral, my doctor decided I should be tested for H. Pylori first. If the results were negative, as I knew they would be, she would then write me a referral. Blood work. An additional week of awaiting results. Despite being told the results would be mailed to me, they never arrived. I called the doctor’s office. They assured me they had been mailed. If I didn’t receive them in a few days, “call back.” Unsurprisingly, I found myself calling back a few days later when my mailbox continued to turn up empty. Thankfully, I received the results the following week. Negative. It only took three additional weeks to discover what I already suspected. Meanwhile, I still had not seen a specialist and continued to have difficulty swallowing food.
Finally, a referral! Success? Hardly. I called the number for the specialist expecting a receptionist, but instead I was rewarded with the sounds of an operator—a recording. This was no longer the number or the office hadn’t been paying their bills. The recording didn’t specify which nor give me a new number to try. Google. A quick search brought me to the website of the specialist. The only contact information available was an email address. A week later and my email had not been returned (to this day it still has not). This was enough! Three months of trying to get a referral to a gastroenterologist and I was no closer. It was time to say goodbye to my primary care physician.
Perseids
In the late 80s, as a child, I had a subscription to a children’s science magazine called Odyssey. I would read it cover-to-cover and especially enjoyed the astronomy articles. One issue referenced a coming meteor shower and gave times for viewing it. I eagerly awaited the coming of the meteors. I awoke early on the proper Saturday, somewhere around 3:30 or 4:00 A.M. I made my way into the dew-covered backyard and laid out a lawn chair. For a long while I laid there staring into the dark morning sky waiting for the stars to fall. I was alone in the dark yard surrounded by the sounds of the night creatures—the frogs, the crickets, the various noises from the nearby woods. I watched and waited. No star ever fell. Later I would discover the times listed in my magazine were intended for a different time-zone. Over 20 years later, and I had still never seen a meteor shower. Sure, I’d seen numerous falling and shooting stars—small white flashes jetting across the sky—but never the main event.
Last Wednesday night, Erika and I drove up into the Angeles Crest mountains to watch the Perseids. The real flurry of meteors was alleged to show in the wee hours of the morning, but flashy precursors were supposed to appear as early as 11:00 P.M. (proper time-zone this time). We laid atop my car and then upon the ground watching the sky and often shielding our eyes from frequent passing headlights (the excitement of the coming shower had made the highway through the mountains oddly popular) for nearly an hour. We saw over a dozen. They were spectacular—large varicolored spears of light shot across the sky every few minutes. Occasionally one would appear suddenly off to one side illuminating my peripheral vision. Some would be gone in an instant, others would trail through the sky for a few seconds fading slowly into the night. My disappointment as a child was rectified.
We also saw an adorable fox run past into the overgrowth.
Certifiable
As of the afternoon of Saturday, August 15th, Erika and I are PADI certified Open Water divers. Essentially that means we can go dive anywhere that doesn’t require specialty diving skills or depths below 60 feet. Learning to SCUBA dive has also made me feel more comfortable snorkeling and wearing masks that encase my nose. Years of sinus problems have made me especially touchy whenever I feel my breathing is hampered. Forcing myself to learn to dive has alleviated much of that.
Our three certification dives took place in the waters near Catalina Island—specifically Lulu’s Reef and Big Giger. Our first dive was the most interesting. There were only four of us and we dove through a labyrinthine kelp forest descending down to 49 feet. As we made our way down the anchor line, the kelp parted like a doorway letting us into an undersea world. Between the three dives we spent an hour underwater, mostly demonstrating skills necessary to receive our certification. It was fun, but I really look forward to a day when we can spend all of our time underwater exploring.
During the trip back to shore, our boat was often flanked by pods of dolphins racing alongside. Over a dozen dolphins would swim just beneath the bow, then leap into the air and shoot ahead into the ocean. There were times they would breach and be merely several feet from my awestruck face.